Art may not change the world, but it can, at the very least, provoke dynamic conversations
The sixth edition of the Kochi Biennale does what it promises — it makes you question your own privilege, majoritarian politics, labour practices, colonial histories and more. There were moments when we wondered if some exhibits would have been permitted elsewhere in the country. Then, Tom Vattakuzhy’s painting was withdrawn from the Biennale, following protests by Christian groups.
Still, the Biennale continues to transform the city, not just with more hues and murals, but by fusing with its very essence. By extending its geography to include collaterals — it takes you on an examination of the self, the body, nature, history and geopolitics. Be it at Willingdon Island or Mattancherry, the repurposing of old warehouses and spice godowns alongside cafes and galleries invites in a varied group of viewers. As spaces for art, dialogue, even movement, these expanding locations become a gateway for myriad thoughts, voices, and takeaways. This is a quick guide that caters to the Biennale, but can be used to explore the city even without it.
Day 1: Start your day at Pandhal Café at David Hall. Order an expansive breakfast or simply an eclair/croissant with your coffee and head to the ABC Art Room. See if there’s a workshop that piques your interest before making your way to the Student’s Biennale at Arthshila. Some of the exhibits we loved this season were by students so don’t miss them. Walk the promenade, breathing in the sea, before it gets too hot to linger.
From here, head to Aspinwall, the centre of the Biennale, and spend the day taking in the different artistic explorations. Get a bite to eat at the centre itself; simple fare: pazhampori, wada, tea, coffee — just enough for a break. Settle for a while at Barakah, an installation by Bani Abidi and Anupama Kundoo, and watch groups break into impromptu songs, jot down notes or simply take a pause. Aspinwall offers free guided tours at 11 am and 4 pm. Time flows rather quickly here, but make sure you grab yourself a map of the Biennale at the Shop. If you have the time, head to Pepper House after this, before perching yourself at Seagull for a much needed rest. Get your pick of the Kerala fare on offer and soak in both the sea view as well as the day. If you still have some energy, go to Printed Matter and peruse their curated book collection.
Day 2: Today, start with the picturesque lanes of Fort Kochi. Have a hearty breakfast at the Kashi art cafe or Lilly’s. Then slip into Kochi Books for a while. From here, head straight to Mattancherry. The exhibits here are spaced out, housed in different warehouses and spice godowns. There are a lot of collaterals and standalone exhibits; explore them at your pace, guided by the Biennale map. Of course, pick up some spices and chips on your way. For lunch, you can try Kayees Rahmathulla Biryani or just grab handmade chicken cutlets, samosas from street vendors, with piping hot tea. Don’t miss out on Edam and the warehouses nearby. End the day by heading to Fusion Bay for seafood and curries, followed by a scoop at Gelato Pillai. Alternatively, Sol e Mar is a cute little cafe tucked away inside the Azurovy store, where you can get freshly made pasta.
Day 3: If you do have a spare day, head to French toast for breakfast, and catch up on the exhibits that caught your eye. Trust us, there are many you would want to revisit. You can take the ferry to Willingdon Island, followed by a slow lunch at Old Lighthouse Bristow. Or just soak in the charm of the tiny lanes, and watch a Kathakali performance in the evening.
Of course, no trip is complete without some goodies. Pick up tapioca and jackfruit chips at the Armaan Collective or Mattancherry. Kochi Kochi and Anokhi are best bets to pick up some beautiful handloom prints. If you’re interested in the exhibits at the Biennale, you can check them out here.
A Thousand Mornings 