The dessert is getting quirkier. In the growing universe of gelatos, vegan, low-sugar/no-sugar, artisanal ice creams, the syllables are adding up. You have everything from black sesame and honeycomb, blue cheese, lavender, basil to the Indian spinoffs gulab jamun, pani puri, puran poli and more. I’ll take the salted caramel and the fruit flavours most…